When it comes to watch design, some brands opt for an in-your-face approach, while others, like Kiwame Tokyo, embrace a more subtle and thoughtful strategy. The Kiwame Tokyo KUBO collection is a perfect example of this unique Japanese design philosophy, where the beauty lies in the shadows and the atmosphere created, rather than in bold, attention-grabbing features.
This collection, inspired by the abstract concept of 'kubo' (recessed space or hollow), showcases a refined and understated aesthetic. The watches in this line invite you to explore and appreciate the intricate details that come together to form a cohesive and distinctively Japanese design.
The Case: A Study in Balance
Measuring 37mm in diameter and a slender 9.3mm thick (10.7mm with the domed sapphire crystal), the KUBO case exudes a sense of dress watch elegance. However, the vertically brushed flat bezel adds a touch of ruggedness, giving it a versatile appeal that extends beyond formal wear. This balance between refinement and practicality is a recurring theme in Kiwame Tokyo's designs, and it's what makes their watches so intriguing.
The Dials: A Masterclass in Lacquer
Each of the three references in the KUBO collection features a multi-layered lacquer dial, creating a rich and glossy surface. The Breguet-style applied Arabic numerals and broad syringe-style hands add to the overall elegance. But the standout feature is the deeply recessed small-seconds display, which lacks a printed seconds track, adding to the dial's clean and uncluttered look.
The TETSUKON (Blue) dial shifts dramatically from almost black indoors to a vivid blue outdoors, showcasing the beauty of the rich navy tone. USUKI (Ivory) offers a warmer, more inviting personality, inspired by traditional Japanese interiors. And then there's SAKURA (Pink), which could be the star of the show with its soft pink lacquer and the subtle cherry blossom motif within the recessed seconds display, visible only from certain angles.
The Movement: A Dependable Heart
Powering the KUBO collection is the reliable Miyota 82S5 automatic movement, offering a respectable 42-hour power reserve and a characteristic off-center small-seconds layout. While it may not be the most sophisticated movement on the market, it's a solid choice that keeps the watch accessible and reliable.
The Strap: A Subtle Companion
The Italian calf-leather strap with quick-release spring bars is a perfect match for the understated personality of the KUBO. It complements the polished case and lacquer dial without drawing attention away from them, ensuring the dial remains the visual focal point.
Final Thoughts
Kiwame Tokyo has carved out a unique identity in the watch world by translating Japanese design concepts into original watch designs. The KUBO collection is a testament to this approach, with the recessed small-seconds display acting as the organizing principle for the entire watch. It's a cohesive design, supported by thoughtful details, that sets it apart from the competition in the microbrand market.
In my opinion, this collection is a perfect example of how a watch can be both aesthetically pleasing and intellectually stimulating, offering a unique and immersive experience for those who appreciate the finer details in design.